LYON | A MODEL CITY

Of all the cities I have visited if I were to choose one as a model example of how every city should be it would be Lyon.

To start off with Lyon is a very green city, it is not overbuilt, and there are also two rivers flowing through it (the Rhône and the Saône). This gives the overall sense of a city that has attained a perfect balance between the built environment and nature.

Views of Île Barbe whilst on a Lyon river cruise & lily pads commonly growing in Lyon's rivers

Lyon is also one of the most cycling friendly cities I have ever visited with cycling routes everywhere and rental stations for both regular and electric bikes dotted throughout the city making their use very accessible. This means the city has a constant stream of travellers using these routes, not just cyclists but travellers roller blading and on scooters, automatically making the city less congested and therefore healthier, and also quieter than one more dependent on fossil fuel travel.

Lyon is also a city with a great abundance of clean, well-kept, free, communal spaces. The city is full of public squares, gardens, courtyards, river side areas and more. The main city park (Parc de la Tête d'Or) includes a free zoo; squares such as Place des Terreaux include fountains for cooling off in the hot summer months; the river banks have playgrounds and even lounging area (public sunbeds) as well as benches and steps for sitting, reading, eating and so on; and museums (such as the Beaux Arts and Lumière) have courtyard gardens which can be accessed for free and are very pleasant spaces to spend time in. The Beaux Arts also has one of the most beautiful museum cafes I have seen as it overlooks the courtyard garden.

Parc de la Tête d'Or, Place du Maréchal Lyautey, Place des Terreaux & the garden courtyard of Musée des Beaux Arts

Lyon is as culturally rich as a city can wish to be.

Architecturally, it boasts a history stretching back to the Roman empire and has associated archaeological sites one can visit such as the Roman theatre. The old town has Italian influence whereas the rest of the city has stunning historic, French architecture. There are marvellous surviving cathedrals and churches stretching over many eras, such as the The Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière. But Lyon also exemplifies what the French do so wonderfully, they maintain and honour their incredible history but they also prove to be forward-thinking, by seizing opportunities to develop their city in the most avant-garde way, supporting cutting edge design such as by commissioning the Musée des Confluences, a fine example of contemporary architecture and design.

Views from the old town & a typical historic French façade by the Hôtel de Ville metro station

As well as architecture Lyon is culturally rich in terms of art, not only because of the city’s museums and galleries but also because of its unique urban art, making the city itself alive with art at virtually every turn or crossing. Let’s not forget the city’s historic public art too, the most famous of course being the Bartholdi fountain. This sculpture was created by the sculptor who has arguably created the world’s most iconic large scale sculpture: Liberty enlightening the world. Similarly to the Statue of Liberty, here his work is symbolic too, the lady holding the reins represents France and each of the four horses represents four of France’s most major rivers. I particularly like the horses that very successfully express a sense of wild motion.

The Bartholdi fountain and the Musée des Beaux Arts entrance

Regarding fashion and textiles it was once the silk-weaving capital of the world. It is infamously the birthplace of cinema.

Lyon is significant in terms of gastronomy too. Culinary legend Paul Bocuse was Lyonnais and is accredited with having played a pivotal role in the nouvelle cuisine movement. Lyon also boasts Bouchons which are unique kinds of bistros that only exist in Lyon serving Lyonnaise dishes, of which there are many, and all are divine. Lyon also has a market culture, characterised by food markets, indoors and out from Les Halles to the river banks on the weekends.

Various outdoor markets including river side weekend market, musicians performing by the markets & a Lyonnaise quote hanging in a bouchon

Lyon is also a very vibrant, young city due to its thriving student population. Perhaps this is part of the reason that Lyon felt like a city without any pretence, which is probably what I liked the most about Lyon. It didn’t feel as though there was a large wealth disparity within the city’s population as is so commonly observed in other cities. I didn’t notice any very expensive restaurants or bars for example, instead everything felt very authentic and of a similar level in terms of cost, creating a sense of attainability for everyone. I saw very little poverty. The metro was very easy to use and a touch which I loved was the fact that I could access the internet whilst on the train! I can’t think of another metro I have been on where that is possible. And where there is youth there are often indicators of progressive politics. Lyon had installed signs on its traffic lights which said STOP ISRAEL when red and FREE GAZA when green. https://www.aa.com.tr/fr/monde/lyon-des-autocollants-stop-israel-et-free-gaza-appos%C3%A9s-sur-des-feux-rouges/3620759. So Lyon is also a city in protest, on the right side of history in my opinion. What more could you possibly want from a city?

Nocturnal riverbank view of Lyon facing the distant 'razor' and 'pencil' skyscrapers