TWO NOTRE DAMES

La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière, Lyon & Notre Dame des Pines, Longeval

I entered two holy spaces during my time in Lyon and Longeval. In terms of scale, it is like comparing the Titanic to a fishing boat but in terms of spirituality, atmosphere and even visually there were striking similarities between the illustrious city cathedral and the modest rural chapel. Both these ecclesiastical spaces like many in France are ‘Notre-Dames’ which means they are dedicated to the Madonna.

The Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière in Lyon, built between 1872 and 1884, is probably the city’s most renowned landmark and a must see when in Lyon. It is probably the most dazzling cathedral interior I have ever experienced. The entire surface area of walls and ceiling is decorated with mosaic, primarily in gold and turquoise. The flicker and shine of the gold together with the soft sky-like colours of blue, turquoise and white create a very fresh, light and ethereal energy unlike any other cathedral interior I have known. The mosaics were created between 1885–1903 and had something of a naivety in their artistic manner which I liked because it added to the sense of simplicity and clarity underscoring the energy of the entire sacred space.

The little Madonna of the Pines chapel in Longeval was an adorable, intimate space perched on the mountains near Château Longeval. It was originally built in 1875 and restored in 2024. Chromatically it immediately reminded me of the Notre Dame in Lyon because of its white walls, light blue ceiling and gold star decoration. The overall feeling of the chapel was very inviting, welcoming and non-judgemental. This, for me, contrasts to ecclesiastical spaces in Greece and Cyprus which can feel threatening or judgemental, perhaps in part because the crucifix always takes centre stage at the iconostasis, never the Madonna, and for me this immediately sets a morbid and heavy tone when entering. So here, you are welcomed in a different way which attracted me to the space and made me want to spend time there. This space therefore felt as though it centred around a life force not a death force. A female deity in any religion can also be seen as a life force, as the female gender can be seen as the life-giving gender.